Bookstores in Baghdad leave books out overnight — and the sweet reason is making book lovers tear up

Located near the old quarter of Baghdad, Al-Mutanabbi Street holds the historic center of Baghdad’s bookselling — a street crowded with bookstores and outdoor stalls boasting diverse titles. In the 1960s, this area was where academicians would gather to let loose their heavy minds, words of great weight flowing from their tongues. Over the years, Mutanabbi Street has grown into a hub of intellect, with artists gathering here to feed their passion and stomach. The same street and the same buildings, which were hounded and turned inside out during the Iraq war (2003 to 2011), have rebuilt themselves with a stronger charm. 

The name of the street is drawn from the inspirational poet Al-Mutanabbi — a symbol of Iraq’s pride. With more than 326 poems recorded and available as of now, Al-Mutanabbi is considered one of the most prolific writers in the Arabic language. Born to a water carrier who claimed noble descent in the year 924, the medieval poet joined the Bedouin and lived among them, learning their doctrines and Arabic. With a name translated as “the would-be poet,” Al-Mutanabbi wrote ornamental and traditional panegyrics with lofty metaphors. His immense talent and creative gift led to him being touted as the “Shakespeare of the Arabs.”

In one video, Ankita Kumar, a travel vlogger, shows us beautiful glimpses of the magical Al-Mutanabbi Street — covered in its rustic titles, carts, and people. She mentions the particular attraction of this street and the history it bears so tenderly. This is a place, she says, “where books remain in the street at night because the Iraqis believe that the reader does not steal and the thief does not read.” Their collective faith in goodwill, in the idea that literature elevates the heart, that someone committed to art cannot simultaneously be committed to falsehood, makes them the flagbearers of nirvana.

Kumar shared, “When I was walking down this street, I kept thinking about the House of Wisdom, once the greatest library in the world, destroyed during the Mongol siege.” During this siege in 1258, all the books from here were thrown into the river, the Tigris. It is said that they were dumped in such large quantities that all of the Tigris had turned black from the bleeding ink. The library was also looted and burned during the Iraq War, which lasted for nearly a decade. Still, the spirit of survival is embedded in the streets of Baghdad as Kumar revealed, “Iraqis believe those who try to erase thought will never succeed.”

From new releases to rare finds, from academic essays to pop fiction, from an Arabic translation of American literature to vice versa, Al-Mutanabbi Street has some of the richest, most diverse collections to be found anywhere. This collective community uplifts and honors the responsibility and liberation instilled by the written word — never, ever giving up the devotion towards art and literature. Dreams must be stubborn, they say, for how else will they heal a world stuck in monochrome? Kumar's video has resonated will thousands of her followers online; @overrated _outcast wrote, "Always learn something new from you ❤️" and @gravyandgossip expressed, "Living Iraq vicariously through your reels 🤌✨"

You can follow Ankita Kumar (@monkey.inc on Instagram) for more content on adventures in the craziest corners of the world.